Definitions

Cultured

"Cultured"  refers to the method used for increasing pearl production. 

For those of you who don't have a knowledge of pearls, let me explain the difference between cultured and natural. All pearls – cultured or natural – are formed within a mollusk such as an oyster. Pearls are caused by a bit of foreign matter such as a grain of sand – an irritant –  inside the oyster's shell. The oyster excretes a fluid called nacre to cover the irritant and make it smoother and less irritating. As time passes, the layers of nacre build and a pearl forms. The difference between natural pearls and cultured pearls is in the origin of the irritant. In a cultured pearl, a human introduces the irritant. In a natural pearl, Mother Nature does the job. It is rare to find a natural pearl on the market today. There are two major benefits of the cultured pearl: 

1. the uniformity of the irritant is controlled and pearls of more uniform size and shape can be harvested. 

2. many more oysters contain pearls than they would if left to Mother Nature. This drives the price down making pearls more affordable to more people.

Every woman needs pearls in her jewelry collection.

A synthetic stone is chemically identical to the stone found in nature. The primary difference is that the stone was created by man rather than waiting millions of years for them to form. Oftentimes, there are subtle differences. Natural stones quite often have inclusions - as do the synthetics - but the inclusions in the natural stones are typically elongated while those in the synthetics are round.

Gemstones

Alexandrite

Birthstone: June and August (Non-traditional)

Anniversary: Forty-fifth and fifty-fifth

This spectacular gem is colored by chromium occurring in combination with iron. High-quality alexandrite will appear a vivid green color when viewed in daylight and a bright red hue in incandescent lighting. Natural alexandrite is thus an excellent example of what the gem world calls the color-change phenomenon.

Natural alexandrite is so rare and expensive that less costly alternatives produced in controlled laboratory environments have taken hold in the marketplace. Consumers should take note that exposure to extreme heat, such as a jewelers torch or steam cleaner, can alter the color-change properties of the stone, so be careful when selecting a jeweler to size an alexandrite ring.

The gem was first discovered in Russia in the early part of the nineteenth century and subsequently named after Czar Alexander II. Many people still refer to the stone as "Russian alexandrite", but the Russian deposits produce very little of this rare gem today. The two most important sources of alexandrite in the world now are Brazil and Sri Lanka. 

Alexandrite is a non-traditional birthstone for June and August. Those born under the sign of Gemini lay claim to it as their astral gem. It is also used to celebrate a forty-fifth or fifty-fifth anniversary. To dream of an alexandrite was said to foretell the onset of hard times and financial difficulty. 

Birthstone: November (Non-traditional)

Anniversary: Tenth

Amber is technically not a gemstone or mineral, but instead is fossilized sap from prehistoric trees that lived almost fifty million years ago, primarily in Scandinavia and elsewhere around the Baltic Sea. Today, the most important source of this most unusual organic substance continues to be Russia, in particular the Kaliningrad mine. The area of Poland along the Baltic coast, not far from Kaliningrad, is another major source; in fact, occasionally amber can be found floating on the surface of the Baltic, after being set free from land by the constant pounding of the sea. It is generally accepted that the amber from the Baltic region is the world's finest. Actually, some gem purists consider it the only true amber in the world today. 

The average consumer thinks of amber only in its golden yellow state, but it also comes in shades of milky white, red-orange, green, black, and even (rarely) violet. It is usually seen cut en cabochon and polished to a high shine. Amber is also sometimes carved into beautiful and unusual pendants, brooches, and other such pieces of jewelry, as well as decorative artifacts. An artist will carve an image into the flat side of the cabochon, and the transparent nature of the amber will magnify it and allow it to show through.

Amber ranks near the bottom of the specific-gravity scale, being measured at only 1.08. Because of this, huge pieces represent tiny carat weights, so amber is normally measured in millimeters instead. The heaviest piece of amber on record weighed just twenty pounds. 

Amber is popular in other ways besides jewelry: an oil derived from it is used in the production of certain pharmaceuticals, and because it gives off the aroma of musty pine when heated, certain cultures use it in incense. If the opportunity ever presents itself, visit the Museum of Amber in Sopot, Poland, a thriving community on the Baltic Sea. If you do, you're sure to smell the amber burning in strategic places throughout the museum.

With its usual golden yellow color, amber is a nontraditional birthstone for November. Some people born under the sign of Leo choose amber as their astral stone, but there are also references to it as an astral stone for the signs of Aquarius, Pisces, Cancer, and Scorpio. Amber is also considered the tenth-anniversary commemorative stone.

Amber probably has more folklore and tradition associated with it than any other gem. It has been spoken of with reverence by ancient tribal leaders and medicine men for its claimed healing properties. Early physicians prescribed amber as a cure for headaches, arthritis, heart problems, and a variety of other ailments. Many travelers wore amber amulets to protect them from fatigue, heatstroke, and death. Christians thought that finding amber indicated the presence of God. In the Far East, amber is regarded as a symbol of courage; in fact, certain Asian cultures still believe that amber is actually the soul of the tiger. Egyptian cultures tucked pieces of amber into the caskets of loved ones, in the belief that the body would then forever remain whole, even as it was transported to another life.

From time to time, tiny bits of ancient plant and animal life have been found trapped inside amber, leading some people to consider it a key to information about the beginning of the world, a type of organic matter that transcends time. Scientists have even managed in recent years to draw and examine DNA from insects preserved in amber. Perhaps most astonishingly, a piece of amber containing a fully preserved flower complete with seeds was discovered in the Dominican Republic in 1995. This find is believed to be the first of its kind, and it could eventually lead to the reconstruction of a tree that has been extinct for more than fifteen million years! 

On the other hand — except in Hollywood — modern technology is still unable to create a dinosaur from the animal blood that has been found inside some of those trapped insects. All this aside, amber is a most mysterious, mystical organic gem that should be a part of your jewelry wardrobe. It is not particularly expensive, and it sometimes can be found set in sterling silver, either alone or with marcasite. Amber is readily available, and there is no expectation of a shortage.

Amethyst

Birthstone: February

Anniversary: Sixth and seventeenth

The lavender-through-purple variety of quartz is called amethyst. Amethyst is the traditional birthstone for February and the traditional astral stone for those born under the sign of Aquarius, Pisces, Aries, or Capricorn. Some astrologers associate the amethyst with Saturn – probably because of the broad range of colors.

It is common knowledge that the darker varieties of amethyst are considered the most valuable. Many sources of amethyst are capable of producing dark, high-quality gems, it is widely agreed that those from the lands of Namibia and Zambia are the world's finest. This variety is sometimes so deep in color that, from a distance, it almost resembles morion –  a seldom-seen black variety of quartz.  Today, Brazil is regarded as the most significant source of amethyst in the world.

Amethyst has it share of folklore and superstition. In ancient times, amethyst was thought to quicken the wit, protect soldiers in battle, guard against contagious disease and bring peace of mind to the wearer. Amethyst was also believed to control evil thoughts and aid in a person's spiritual development.

Ametrine

When amethyst and citrine are found in the same crystal, they form a bicolored stone known as ametrine. This effect – color zoning – makes the ametrine a rare find and an excellent collectible. The rarity is due to the fact that only where the colors meet will you find the ametrine. The rest of the crystal is either amethyst or citrine. 

Because the color-zoning property is natural, no two ametrines will be exactly alike. In order to properly display this gem, they are usually found in a rectangular shape, faceted along the perimeter.

The world's sole source of this natural quartz is found in the jungles of Bolivia at the Anahi Mine. The mine is rumored to have been first discovered by native Indians in the seventeenth century. Eventually the Bolivian government declared this land a state government reserve and built a fortress near the mine entrance.

Aquamarine

Birthstone: March

At one time, the aquamarine was considered abundant and market prices reflected that attitude. Today, it is not unusual to see a top-quality aquamarine fetch a price of hundreds of dollars or more per carat.

The demand for aquamarine has changed with the passage of time. At one time, the sea green variety was the most highly prized. In fact, the name aquamarine means "sea water."

The earliest sailor took aquamarines with them to toss in the water to satisfy the often angry god of the seas, Poseidon.

Today's consumers look more for varieties displaying shades of blue that run the spectrum from sky blue to ocean blue. It is worth noting that a sea green aquamarine, with undertones of yellow, can be heated to produce a strikingly beautiful shade of blue. This practice is common with virtually all aquamarines found in the retail market today, and does little to affect the market value.

Aquamarine is accepted as the birthstone for March, but those born in October also recognize it as their birthstone. If you are born under the sign of Aquarius or Scorpio, you should know that the aquamarine is one your astral stones as well.

Aquamarine comes from many different places in the world, but some of the most desirable stones originate in Brazil. Other important sources include parts of the former Soviet Union, China, India, Pakistan, and Nigeria.

The cubic form of zirconium oxide was discovered in 1937 by two German mineralogists. Soviet scientists learned how to "grow" this gemstone in a laboratory and Swarovski & Co. began producing it for mass consumption in the 80s. CZ quickly became popular with jewelry designers. New developments have led to a sparkling array of CZs in every color imaginable. 

Cubic zirconia is a simulant - that is, it simulates a genuine diamond. It is not identical to the gemstone in chemistry or optical characteristics like a synthetic. Most people, even trained gemologists, cannot tell the difference with the naked eye. In appearance, cubic Zirconia looks almost exactly like a good quality diamond, although there are some slight differences. 

CZ has slightly less brilliance (sparkle) than diamond, while having more fire (flashes of rainbow colors). The overall effect is so similar to diamond that trained gemologists often require special equipment to tell them apart. There are very few substances on earth harder than CZ. With a hardness rating of 8.5, CZ comes close to matching diamond's perfect 10. 

I heard a lady describe her jewelry as "summer" diamonds - "summer" diamonds and "summer" not. She liked CZs because she could afford to be a little more casual with CZs than she could with her genuine diamonds. What she really meant was that she could be a little more careless. That's the way I see the CZ. I have a ring that I wear all the time and it has a 1/3 ct diamond. Every time I accidentally bang it against the wall, I check the stone. I have another ring with a CZ that I wear fairly regularly. Every time I accidentally bang it against the wall, I figure if worse comes to worse, I can replace it for very little. By the way, if I ever lose the 1/3 ct diamond, I'm going to replace it with a CZ. Virtually the same sparkle as a diamond without the worry. And CZs are usually clearer and have better color. After all, when you're making the gemstone, why settle for anything less than perfect.

Birthstone: April

Anniversary: Tenth and sixtieth

The diamond – the hardest of all minerals – remains the most popular gem in the world.

Diamonds were created billions of years ago from carbon deposits subjected to intense heat and pressure deep with the Earth. The presence of other gemstones sometimes indicates the existence of diamond deposits. Until the eighteenth century, the leading source of diamond production was India. Today, the most important source of diamonds is Australia, although the country producing the largest number of gem-quality stones is Namibia.

The first diamond discovered in Africa was found by a young child walking on the beach. South Africa became the world's premier source of diamonds for almost a century.

The diamond is the traditional birthstone for April and the anniversary stone for the tenth anniversary, It is considered a nontraditional astral stone for Cancer, and Libra and is associated with the Sun and Venus.

More than any other gem, the diamond is offered as a token of one person's love for another.

Birthstone: May

Anniversary: Twentieth, thirty-fifth, and fifty-fifth

The most popular member of the beryl group is the emerald. Throughout history, the emerald has played an important role in society, and it is a stone rich in folklore and tradition. The emerald is considered the traditional birthstone for May, but is also a nontraditional birthstone for January, June, August, and September. Astrologers have adopted the emerald as an astral stone for the signs of Taurus, Gemini,, and Cancer, and they link it to Mercury, Venus, and the moon. The emerald is considered appropriate for couples celebrating a twentieth, thirty-fifth, or fifty-fifth anniversary.

There are a number of sources for emeralds, led by Colombia and also Brazil, India, Australia, South Africa, Pakistan, and Zimbabwe. Columbia is credited with producing the highest-quality stones in the world.

Emeralds grow naturally within the Earth, formed under intense heat and pressure. They are mined by conventional shaft-mining techniques. The can also be found in alluvial deposits.

Birthstone: January

Anniversary: Second and eighteenth

The world's largest supply of garnets is in Africa. In 1996, the largest single garnet was found in Australia, with a weight of thousands of tons and measuring nearly one hundred feet across.

The red color of garnet is caused by the presence of iron, chromium, and manganese trapped in the crystal.

The garnet is widely accepted as the traditional birthstone for January, although some traditions consider it a birthstone for February, May, or October.  Astrologers see is as the traditional astral stone for Aquarius, though some attribute it to Leo or Capricorn. Astrologers also regard the garnet as a strong, positive gem, bringing happiness to those who wear it. Ancient people believed the garnet could bring relief from debilitating arthritis. Some thought that when a wise man had a dream about garnets, he would soon reach a solution to the mysteries of life.

Iolite is a gem with very strong pleochroic properties, meaning it may show many colors from different angles. The predominant color is blue, with flashes of violet, gray, or yellow, or all of these.

These blue gems are found in alluvial deposits, primarily in the form of water worn pebbles; this is why iolite is sometimes known as "the water sapphire." Because of the source of iolite, it is rare to find a stone of any great size.

Ancient mariners used a blue-violet crystal as a compass to guide their way when out to sea. The crystal would show different colors when held to the northern sky than it would when held to the southern sky. Because of its vivid pleochroism, most gem historians now believe that this crystal was, in fact, the iolite, Folklore tells us that prior civilizations believed iolite was the key to unlocking creativity in an artist. Today, astrologers often link iolite to the planet Saturn.

Iolite is not generally found in conventional retail outlets, but rather at gem and mineral shows. This is more a result of low consumer awareness than rarity. Gem cutters consider iolite a difficult gem to work with, because it can lose its attractive pleochroic properties if it is not cut properly and its crystal structure will often chip during the carving process.

Besides jewelry, iolite is used in the production of certain optical coatings. Iolite is a lovely blue/violet gem that should be part of your collection.

Jade

Since at least 2950 BC, jade has been treasured in China as the royal gemstone, yu. The word yu is used in Chinese to call something precious, as in English we use gold.

In Central America the natives treasured jade and used it for carvings and masks. The Aztecs instituted a tax in jade, which unfortunately led to the recycling of earlier artworks.

It was discovered that the material from the new world was not the same mineral as the jade from China. The mineral from Central America was called jadeite to distinguish it from the original Chinese nephrite. Today it is jadeite jade that is considered the real jade, commanding prices much higher than nephrite because it comes in much more vivid green colors and finer translucency than nephrite jade.

The top jade is usually cut into smooth dome shapes called cabochons. Bangles are also very popular in Asian countries. Beads are also very beautiful and some important jadeite necklaces made during the art deco period have fetched hundreds of thousands of dollars in auctions in the past few years.

Because of its smooth even texture, jade has long been a preferred material for carving. Both jadeite and nephrite are very durable and tough, although jadeite is slightly harder than nephrite due to its microcrystalline structure.

Jade has been considered a stone that helps us understand our dreams and teaches us to live in harmony with the laws of nature and spirit. Traditionally, jade augments longevity, fertility, serenity, wisdom, practicality, tranquility, balance, peace, harmony, moderation, perspective, equilibrium and stability. Black jade offers protection from negativity and fosters the wise use of power.

Kunzite

Kunzite gets its lovely pink-to-violet color from traces of manganese. Kunzite was discovered at the Pala Chief Mine near San Diego, California, and named after the noted gemologist G. F. Kunz, who first described it just after the turn of the twentieth century. In fact, that site is considered a secondary source of kunzite even today. At one time Brazil dominated the market, but these deposits are now exhausted. This beautiful gem is sometimes found in Madagascar and Myanmar, but Afghanistan is currently regarded as the most prolific source. It is most often found in pockets, primarily in mountainous regions, together with hiddenite.

Although kunzite is a relative newcomer to the gem world, it has already acquired a history of folklore and tradition, even being considered a modern-day birthstone for February. Those who wear kunzite are believed to be blessed with good fortune. Its soft pastel color is said to stand for purity and innocence, and its presence is sometimes regarded as a symbol of pregnancy and the beginning of a new life. A dream about kunzite is believed to guarantee a hospitable welcome by strangers while on a journey to an unfamiliar land.

Kunzite is still thought of as an unusual, rare find in the marketplace. Few jewelers offer the gem, once again because of the lack of consumer awareness. This means kunzite remains a gem that is quite rare, yet relatively affordable for all. Unlike some other little-known gems of low awareness, however, kunzite has limited sources of supply, which someday could cause the market to tighten. Grab one for your very own collection if the opportunity presents itself and it fits nicely into your budget.

Lapis Lazuli

Although lapis lazuli, can be found in Chile, parts of the former Soviet Union, and the United States, the only material considered to be of gem quality comes from the mountains of Afghanistan, where it has been mined for thousands of years.

The chief component of lapis lazuli is a mineral known as lazurite, which accounts for up to 60 percent of its structure. Lapis sometimes seems to sparkle, which indicates the presence of pyrite, also known to consumers as fool's gold. Other components in lapis include calcite and sodalite. The ratio of these materials to one another can affect the hardness, specific gravity, and even the color of lapis lazuli.

Like many other ancient gems, lapis lazuli has a long and storied past and a place of importance among gem collectors. Those born in September or December may make claim to lapis as their birthstone. A stone of much cosmic significance, lapis is often considered an astral stone for Aquarius and Taurus. Ancient astrologers linked lapis to the planet Saturn; some link it to Venus. It was a practice of certain ancient Egyptian cultures to bury the dead with a lapis scarab for protection. In fact, the earliest cultures actually valued lapis more than they did gold. Greeks once spoke of an ancient sapphire included with gold, which was undoubtedly lapis. Some believed that dreaming of lapis would foretell the arrival of a forever-faithful love. Medicinally, it was once thought to be an aid against fevers, sore throats, and bums. In Victorian times, lapis was sometimes ground into powdered form and used as a pigment for elaborate artifacts and brooches of glass and enamel.

Although lapis is essentially a sole-source gem, there is little concern as of now about its future supply. This is as much a result of lack of demand as anything else. Even with its historical significance, most consumers are not aware of its lofty status in the gem world. To this day, lapis is next to impossible to find at conventional retail outlets. However, exposure on nationally televised shopping networks has begun to better educate the general buying public, bringing about increased demand for lapis. Despite the relatively low cost of natural lapis, simulants also exist. In fact, certain chalcedony agates can be dyed blue and passed off to unsuspecting consumers as lapis lazuli. Because of' its long history, I believe even the most casual gem buff should include at least one piece of lapis lazuli in his or her collection.

Opal

Birthstone: October

Anniversary: Fourteenth

Most consumers have just one gem in mind when they think of the opal: the translucent white stone with sporadic bits of color play, seen commonly at retail. Certainly this is the most popular variety of white opal by far, but it is by no means the only type in existence. White opals that display these beautiful patterns of light in an almost checkerboard pattern are known as harlequin opals. The jelly opal, another variety of white opal occasionally seen at retail, is easily spotted because of its translucent state. 

The white precious opal is the subject of much folklore and tradition. Because it contains every color of the rainbow, early peoples felt it was a gift from the heavens. They also believed the opal had magical powers and could heal the sick and bring good fortune to those in need. The white precious opal has been widely accepted as the traditional birthstone for October and is considered an astral gem for the signs of Libra, Scorpio, and Capricorn. The ancient Romans regarded the opal as a sign of loyalty and hope, while other cultures believed its fiery colors were caused by lightning striking the stones as they fell from the heavens. To dream of an opal was thought to predict opportunities to come.

Since you may already have some preconceived notions about the opal that may affect your buying decision, let's set the record straight right here and now. Some people believe the opal will cloud up when exposed to water. Although there have been reports of hazing as a result of the glue used in the production of a doublet or triplet, water does not affect genuine precious opal. In fact, some experts recommend an occasional soaking to keep the stone moist and prevent any cracks. The opal does not shrink over time, nor does it lose its color in bright sunlight or intense cold. And finally, the opal is not unlucky. That tall tale was started by diamond merchants during the early part of the twentieth century, in order to protect their territory by convincing people not to buy opals.

Birthstone: June

Anniversary: Third and Thirtieth

A strand of pearls has always been considered as the one essential part of the jewelry collection. The pearl can adapt to any new fashion down through the ages. Pearls are second in sales only to the diamond.

It is the oldest-known gem, and for many centuries it was considered the most valuable of all. The pearl is actually organic matter — derived from a living creature — in this case, oysters and other underwater animals called mollusks.

So much history accompanies the pearl that it has been claimed as the birthstone of five different months: February, April, June (traditional), July, and November. It is also an astral stone for the signs of Gemini and Cancer, and astrologers link it to the moon. Couples celebrate their thirtieth anniversary with the pearl.

Some early cultures believed a single drop of rain fell from the heavens and became the heart of the oyster. Others referred to pearls as the "teardrops of the moon," speculating. that oysters were drawn to the surface of the water by the rays of the moon and fertilized by droplets of dew when they opened their shells. Others felt that pearls were formed by the passage of angels through the clouds of heaven. Early civilizations spoke of the medicinal properties of the pearl, employing it to treat everything from indigestion to heart disease. Actually, in some instances, they were not all that far off: Calcium carbonate, its primary substance, is used even today as an antacid.

Over time, the pearl has become the symbol of purity and innocence, and as such, it is considered an ideal wedding gift. Many bridal gowns incorporate it into the bodice of the dress, and a strand of pearls, together with similar earrings, has become an almost essential part of the bridal wardrobe. In certain religions, an undrilled whole pearl is presented to the groom during the wedding ceremony as a symbol of chastity and grace.

Pearls can be found in a variety of sizes and shapes, and they may occur either naturally or through a process known as cultivation. Natural pearls are very seldom seen and, as you might suspect, prohibitively expensive. The cultured pearl has taken over to fill the gap. 

Birthstone: August

Peridot  – also known as Chrysolite - is the name given to the gem variety of the olivine mineral group.<p>

Historically, one of the oldest and most important sources of peridot was the tiny island known today as Zabargad.  Originally, the island was known as Topazios. Because of this, the gem was often mislabeled as topaz rather than Olivine.

Much superstition and tradition surrounds the peridot. A gem of great mystical connection, the peridot is linked to a number of astral signs including Pisces, Gemini, Leo, Virgo, and Libra. People born in August, September, or November often adopt this lovely gem as their birthstone. Astrologers also link it to Mercury and Venus.

The peridot is considered a stone of springtime and ancients believed it was a gift from Mother Nature in celebration of the annual creation of a new world. Napoleon gave peridot to the Empress Josephine as a symbol of his undying love and admiration – obviously at some point before he had their marriage annulled.

Most of the world’s peridot supply comes from the San Carlos Apache Reservation in Gila County, Arizona.

Birthstone: July

Anniversary stone: Fifteenth and Fortieth

Technically, Rubies are red corundum. However, the red variety has never been tagged as a type of sapphire, but has always had its own separate name.

Rubies come in many shades of red – from the most sought-after variety of pure red known as pigeon's blood, through mixtures that display undertones of blue, purple, orange, or brown.

The highest quality rubies originate in the Mogok region of Mayanmar, the country formerly called Burma. This gem is known worldwide as the Burmese ruby. The earliest record of rubies from Burma dates back to the late 1500s.

The ruby is the traditional birthstone for July, though others consider it a birthstone for December. It is used to celebrate a couple's fifteenth and fortieth anniversaries.

The ruby is considered the most powerful gem in the universe and is associated with a variety of astral signs, including Cancer, Leo, Virgo, Scorpio, and Capricorn. It is often associated with the sun, though some link the ruby to the planet Mars.

Birthstone: September

Birthstone: January, June, and November (Non-traditional)

Anniversary: Fifth and Forty-fifth

The most popular color for sapphire is the traditional blue, but sapphires come in a wide variety of shades and colors.  All colors, other than blue, are referred to as "fancy" sapphires.  The blue sapphire is one of the most popular colored gems in the world, consistently among the top two or three in total sales, along with the emerald and ruby.

The sapphire has more than its share of folklore and tradition. Some ancient societies believed that the Earth rested upon a sapphire, which they theorized made the sky blue. Legend has it that if a person of evil intention wore a sapphire, it would get angry and refuse to shine. Sapphires dipped in cool water were believed able to cure sight disorders.

The sapphire is the traditional birthstone for September. It is also considered an astral stone for the signs of Taurus, Virgo, and Libra and astrologers link it to the planet Saturn. Couples use sapphires to celebrate a fifth or forty-fifth anniversary.

The finest stones ever mined originated in Kashmir, India and this source has been depleted for many years.  Today, many people believe that the premium blue sapphire on the market is the Ceylon sapphire . Many fine specimens originate in the Kanchanaburi region of Thailand, which is slowly drying up. A recent new source for the sapphire is the soft blue of the sapphire that originates in the Bokeo province of Laos. Australia is being developed as a future source for the sapphire. Here in the United States, sapphires of many colors from Montana are gaining wide acceptance. Production of the Montana sapphires is limited.

Tanzanite was first discovered in 1967 in a single deposit in Tanzania. It was first believed to be a form of sapphire that would rival the Ceylon for quality and color.

Nearly all tanzanite found today is heat treated at low levels and then cut to show a deeper blue. This is common in the gem world and does little to affect the market value. Tanzanite can appear not only blue, but also purple and slate gray depending on the viewing angle.

Because it is found only in Tanzania, the future supply remains doubtful. Floods have reduced the flow of tanzanite to a trickle. How much tanzanite is left in the world? It depends on the person to whom you speak. Some predict that there will be no new tanzanite in less than ten years – others say we won't have to worry about it in our lifetime. One its supplies are depleted, tanzanite is likely to disappear forever.

A number of simulants have already been developed, while others are being perfected. A new variety recently introduced to the consumer marketplace is a close relative of yttrium aluminum garnet, a diamond simulant more commonly known as YAG. This tanzanite look-alike is said to be the closest in appearance yet to the real thing. In addition to this newest entry, consumers searching for alternatives to the expensive tanzanite solitaire can choose from simulants of synthetic quartz, corundum, and spinel. 

As with any rare gem, try to find the largest individual solitaire that your budget will allow, but do not sacrifice quality for size. It is impractical to expect to find a $5,000 tanzanite on a budget of $200, so set realistic goals that fall within your means. Remember: any shade of natural tanzanite will be better than owning none at all.

Tavalite^® was born when Don Rogers of Deposition Sciences, Inc. of Santa Rosa, CA wanted a unique anniversary gift for his wife. DSI does thin-film coating for applications including lighting filters, lenses, mirrors, and fiber-optic cable used in the telecommunications industry. Rogers hit on putting a cubic zirconia gemstone through the coating procedure. The resulting multicolored stone impressed not only his wife but enough others that DSI saw a chance to start a serendipitous line of business.

Tavalite is a clear topaz coated with a microscopic layer of metallic oxide compound such as titanium dioxide. The coating on the stone causes the light to reflect off the facets on the interior of the stone, but, more importantly, it reflects off the surface where the coating meets the stone adding a metallic luster. The resulting spectral hues are actually interference colors, resulting from light reflecting from the surface of the gem and the inner surface of the coating. Tavalite gems are created by Deposition Sciences Inc., Santa Rosa, CA.

Thin-film deposition is not new. Camera lenses have been made with this coating process for many years. Look at a high-end camera lens and you will see the sheen similar to that of a soap bubble. That's the effect created by the coating.

Virtually any stone can be used in creating a tavalite, but for our purposes, we're going to limit this discussion to topaz. But just to give you an idea, people have also created black jade coated with gold with huge success.

As a rule, thin-film coated gemstones should be set in jewelry that provides some protection to the coatings – less prone to hitting against the wall or the edge of your desk. The coatings are durable, but not as durable as the stone beneath the coating. Tavalite should not be cleaned with an abrasive of any kind.

Coatings can be used for several different reasons. In the case of tavalite, it's being done to create certain visual effects that add to the appearance of the stone. Certain coatings, however, are done to convince the buyer that a stone is better quality than it actually is. Emeralds, for example, are often filled with an oil and then surface coated to seal the oil into the stone. This is a normal practice and many emeralds on the market have been through this process.

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Tavalite is a registered trademark of Deposition Sciences Inc. of Santa Rosa, CA. 

Birthstone:  November (Imperial topaz)

The most common and popular color for topaz is blue and you can find a blue topaz in shades ranging from a light sky blue through the Swiss blue to the darkest and costliest form of all – the London blue topaz. The natural blue topaz is seldom available at retail.

Virtually all topaz on the market today began "life" as a colorless stone. It was brought to its gorgeous color through a 2-step process. The stone was first irradiated with a safe level of radiation to bring out the blue in the stone. The radiated stone is then heated to darken the color. The longer the stone is heated, the darker it becomes. From a chemical standpoint, it's clear from this that the dark London blue topaz and the paler sky blue topaz are actually the same stone. The London blue has been heated longer. The additional energy required in heating the stone for a longer period of time accounts for the higher price of the London blue topaz. The enhancement process is a permanent process and cannot be reversed.

My personal opinion is that I like the lighter stones. The London blue is too dark to be appreciated in any circumstances except in very bright light. Topaz is, by nature, a very clear stone. With the lighter colors you can see into the interior of the stone and see all of the facets reflecting light. Topaz is truly a very beautiful stone.

Astrologers link topaz to the planets Mercury and Venus. The ancient Greeks believed that it had the power to increase strength and make its wearer invisible in times of emergency. Topaz was also said to change color in the presence of poisoned food or drink and to cure insomnia, asthma, and hemorrhages. Witches used the topaz for influencing money, love, healing, and protection.

Non-Traditional Birthstone: October

Although most people consider the green and yellow varieties of tourmaline the most common, its range of colors is almost endless. 

The pink tourmaline is probably the most popular member of this colorful gem group. This lovely gem can be a deep bold pink, or a soft pastel version that may be reminiscent of the lovely pink sapphire. If you were born in October, the pink tourmaline is one of your birthstones. Pink tourmaline is sometimes heated to a colorless state, though this variety also occurs naturally.

The geographical world of the tourmaline is almost as widespread as its color spectrum. Among its sources, Brazil is Probably the most important, However, fine-quality tourmalines can also be found in Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Madagascar and elsewhere in Africa, and parts of the former Soviet Union. In the United States, Maine and California also contribute some colorful specimens.

Because of its many family members, the future supply of the tourmaline mineral group is all but impossible to predict, As of now, certain varieties, like the one from the world-famous Paraíba mine, will someday be extinct, while others, such as the bottle green and yellow varieties, look to be in good supply for many years to come. 

Birthstone: December

One of the oldest and most popular of all gems is the turquoise. A stone of historical and even biblical significance, turquoise was mined by the Egyptians in the Sinai Peninsula. Still other ancient cultures, including the Greeks, Romans, Incas, and Mayans, were all enthralled by its unparalleled color. In the Victorian era, children often wore turquoise inset in gold lockets and rings. According to legend, the first person ever to wear turquoise was Isaac, the son of Abraham.

The rich blue color of turquoise depends on the ratio of copper and iron found in the content of the rough; copper contributes to the blue part of the spectrum, while the presence of iron turns the blue to green. The crystal also is often invaded by manganese oxides, which contribute a variety of black lines sometimes known as veins, These veins contribute to the character of turquoise; because of this, no two stones will ever be exactly alike. In addition to being cut and polished en cabochon, turquoise is also seen fashioned into beads or nuggets. Because it is sensitive to heat, turquoise is a most difficult gem to polish, and the craftsperson must make certain not to allow the stone to overheat through friction in the polishing process, or the stone will lose its attractive blue color.

When shopping for turquoise, always remember that some specimens are very porous and may crack or even split completely over time. To overcome this problem, a resin or waxlike substance is used to help maintain the integrity of the gem's structure. 

Turquoise is most often seen set in sterling silver, either alone or in combination with other gems cut en cabochon, such as malachite, onyx, and carnelian. Although most of the turquoise jewelry I have seen is associated with designs from the American Southwest, pieces with an antique look can sometimes be found in association with hematite or marcasite.

Turquoise is the traditional birthstone for December, but those born in June or July also claim it as a birthstone. Some astrologers link turquoise to the planet Venus and the astral signs of Aquarius and Capricorn. Earlier cultures believed turquoise had the power to protect people from the bite of a poisonous snake, and it was said to be able to overcome sight disorders and even blindness.

Rev. 12-23-2003